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Chris Lilly, the pit master and owner of Big Bob Gibson BBQ in Decatur, Alabama, who is also a four-time grand champion of the Memphis in May world championship barbecue contest, doesn't see many women as lead chefs in competitions.

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Masters, who started Squeal of Approval after she got the family smoker post-divorce and, when it died, bought a new one and painted it pink for smaller regional competitions, says she sees a lot of husband-wife teams competing—with the husband as chief chef. While a greater percentage of women—perhaps 25 percent, according to Lilly—are members of competitive barbecuing teams, their roles are typically as tasters, meat trimmers, marinade preparers or assemblers of so-called "blind boxes" presented to judges: white Styrofoam containers stuffed with grilled meat on beds of artfully arranged parsley or lettuce.

Masters argues that because serious competitions are blind-judged, meaning that judges don't know the gender or identity of who cooks what, women will emerge more frequently as winners as more women enter competitions.

While sales of gas grills peaked in , at nearly Last year, for charcoal or wood grills, men made the decision to grill 62 percent of the time, lit grills 73 percent of the time and actually cooked 68 percent of the time, figures, from the HPBA that have held roughly steady for nearly three decades. But the trend reverses with outdoor electric grills, whose sales reached , units last year, a record high since the HPBA began tracking data in With electric outdoor grills, 55 percent of users are women.

The Page 99 Test: Andrew Warnes' "Savage Barbecue"

For Lilly, who competed last May against teams like Auto Be Grillin' and Swinefeld, the bigger controversy is what he calls "old school versus new school" in backyard grilling. Forget ready-made, preformed charcoal briquettes versus lump charcoal; the real tension is between those who make their own charcoal with hickory, peach, pecan, mesquite or another hard wood and those who think it's all right to sneak by with wood pellets on a propane gas grill. Blame the controversy on the slow 'n' low process needed to properly cook a pound pork bratwurst shoulder for up to 18 hours at to degrees versus the intensity of life in the 21st century, says Wells.

As Clint Cantwell, the editor of grilling. That's right.

My Shopping Bag

Not in an addiction kind of way, just a "it's 8 p. That "I want it now" ethos is a shift from barbecue's original tradition in Colonial Virginia, where roasting whole animals first emerged as a common form of mass, populist celebration in which democratic ideals and community sharing were feted. In the 19th century, politicians realized that community barbecues were a great place to court voters, a practice whose roots are evident today in political metaphors such as "grilled," "skewered" and "raked over the coals.

When barbecue moved out to the newly created American suburbs after World War II, it became a symbol of "something idyllic in an urbanizing world," says Robert Moss, a culinary historian in Charleston, South Carolina. Gas grills with permanent lines hooked into houses' main gas lines expanded the practice, with gas companies in the s charging users an extra couple of dollars a month.

Barbecue and Racism

The widespread appearance of the portable gas grill in the s, which later evolved into today's giant, gleaming contraptions, "should get rid of notions of manliness, but our culture still clings to it," Moss says. The book has two sections of essays.

8,000 YEAR-OLD BARBECUE STYLE - Ancient Inca Food in Peru!

Various essays fall within the purview of courses on food studies, American studies, southern studies, anthropology, sociology, and cultural history; they could easily be assigned individually to undergraduate or graduate students. In the aggregate, the essays elaborate on regional rituals and recipes that comprise the miscellany and commonalities of barbecue.

Food, Glorious Food!

The Slaw and the Slow Cooked complements other regional studies and enhances the general body of work on barbecue as a national ceremonial cuisine. Citation: Robin O'Sullivan.

Review of Veteto, James R. September, Add a Comment. Michigan State University Department of History.